Embroidery Underlay and Backing: A Complete Guide

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By : Admin 4th October, 2024

Embroidery has been used for centuries to decorate fabrics with beautiful designs. It requires a solid foundation to get exceptional results which is provided by two important components: underlay and backing. While often overlooked, these elements play a vital role in determining the embroidery quality, durability, and overall appearance.

Simply put, underlay is the base layer of stitches in your embroidery design. It’s more important than it sounds because it helps make the top stitching look its best. While embroidery backing is a material placed behind the fabric to provide a stable surface for the embroidery machine to stitch on.

In this article, we will discuss all about underlay and backing including their purposes, types, and best practices. After reading this, you’ll be able to design and create stunning, long-lasting works of art.

What is the Purpose of Using an Underlay in Embroidery?

  • Embroidery underlay provides support and structure to the fabric, so prevents it from puckering or distorting during stitching.
  • Ensures even and consistent stitches for a cleaner, more professional-looking finish.
  • Prevents fabric from peeking through by hiding the grain or nap of the fabric.
  • Creates a more textured and three-dimensional appearance.
  • It anchors the fabric to the backing, hence reduces fill distortion and prevents "bulletproof" fill areas.
  • Maintains the shape and integrity of stitch patterns.
  • Enhances the overall quality and durability of the embroidery

Types of Embroidery Underlay 

Contour Underlay

Contour underlay is a basic type that provides a subtle foundation for embroidery. It helps prevent the fabric from peeking through and creates a smoother surface for stitching. Contour underlay is often used for delicate designs and small text.

Parallel Underlay

Parallel underlay is a popular choice for text and column stitches. It offers a sturdy foundation by providing a series of parallel lines beneath the embroidery. This underlay is good for knit fabrics and stretchy materials like golf shirts, t-shirts, sweats, hats, and knitted caps.

Perpendicular Underlay

Perpendicular underlay is designed to add loft and prevent columns from collapsing. It consists of a series of lines perpendicular to the satin stitches. This is used in combination with zigzag underlay to create a more dimensional effect.

Zigzag Underlay

Zigzag underlay is known for its ability to create significant loft and dimension. It is especially effective for fabrics like pique, terry cloth, and fleece. Moreover, it’s used to add life to design elements such as leaves or muscle tone in animals.

Lattice Underlay

Lattice underlay is a light-density fill that runs perpendicular to the top stitches. It helps anchor the fabric to the backing and reduces the "push and pull" effect that can occur in fill areas. It also lifts the top stitches, allowing for a less dense fill to be used.

Center Run Underlay

Center run underlay is a newer type that places a stitch right in the center of the column. It is useful for small text as it helps maintain the shape and prevents excessive bulk.

Automatic Underlay

Automatic underlay is applied using predefined styles. It can be customized with various settings such as inset, density, stitch length, angle, and number of lines. It is a convenient option for general underlay applications.

Manual Underlay

Manual underlay provides precise control over underlay placement. It is used for fills with steil borders or stretchy garments. It allows for overlapping underlays to prevent separation and is ideal for complex fill areas.

Tips for Choosing the Right Embroidery Underlay

The choice of embroidery underlay is important in order to achieve high-quality results. Here are some tips to help you select the appropriate underlay for your project:

  1. First, consider the Fabric Type. Heavier fabrics require lighter underlays while lighter fabrics need heavier underlays for added support. Use thicker underlays for stretchy fabrics to maintain shape.
  1. Then, look for the stitch density as dense stitches require more support, so a heavier underlay is recommended. While lighter stitches may be sufficient with a thinner underlay.
  1. Determine the fabric's stability. Loosely woven or stretchy fabrics need a more stable underlay to prevent distortion. Firmly woven fabrics may require less support.
  1. Garments that will be washed frequently should use a durable underlay to prevent the embroidery from shifting or fading. Garments that will be worn infrequently may not require as heavy an underlay.
  1. For complex designs or challenging fabrics, consider combining different underlays to provide optimal support.
  1. Too much underlay can create bulk and stiffness in the finished embroidery. Use just enough underlay to achieve the desired support and stability.
  1. Consider the embroidery machine's capabilities. Some machines may have limitations regarding the thickness of underlays they can handle. 

Embroidery Backings and Stabilizers

Embroidery backings, also known as stabilizers, are essential components in the machine embroidery process. They play a crucial role in supporting the fabric and preventing it from puckering or distorting during stitchin]g. Backings also provide a smooth and consistent surface for the thread to glide on, ensuring high-quality results.

Types of Embroidery Backings/Stabilizers

There are several different types of stabilizer for embroidery, each with its own unique characteristics and applications:

Cut Away Backings

Cut away backings is one of the embroidery stabilizer types that is most stable and durable. They are designed to stay on the garment after embroidery and provide long-lasting support. They are ideal for heavy-duty embroidery or fabrics that require extra support, such as denim, leather, or canvas. They are also suitable for designs that will be washed and worn frequently.

Tear Away Backings

Tear away backings are easily removed from the garment after embroidery by simply tearing them away. They are a good choice for delicate fabrics or designs that do not require as much support as cut away backings. These backings are commonly used for lightweight fabrics, such as cotton, polyester, and blends. They are suitable for designs that will be washed and worn infrequently.

Wash Away Backings

Wash away backings are water-soluble, which means they can be removed from the garment by washing it in warm water. They are a good choice for delicate fabrics or designs that require a temporary stabilizer. These are mostly used for embroidery on baby clothes, towels, and other items that need to be washed frequently.

Heat-Away Backings

Heat-away backings are removed from the garment by applying heat. They are a good choice for delicate fabrics or designs that cannot be washed or dry cleaned. These are used for embroidery on caps, hats, and other items that cannot be easily washed.

Fusible Backings

Fusible backings are applied to the fabric with heat and pressure. They are a good choice for stretchy fabrics or designs that require extra stability like activewear, swimwear, and other stretchy fabrics.

Peel and Stick Backings

Peel and stick backings are adhesive-backed stabilizers that can be applied directly to the fabric without the need for hooping. They are a good choice for small designs or areas that are difficult to hoop such as hats, caps, and pockets.

How to Choose the Right Stabilizer/Backing?

Choosing the right stabilizer depends on the fabric types, design, and desired outcome of the embroidery. Here are some tips:

  • Heavier fabrics typically require lighter backings, while lighter fabrics require heavier backings.
  • Stretchy fabrics require more support, so a heavier or more stable backing is often needed.
  • Designs with dense stitching require more support than designs with fewer stitches.
  • Designs that will be washed and worn frequently should use a durable backing, such as a cut away backing.
  • Designs that will be washed infrequently or not at all can use a less durable backing, such as a tear away or wash away backing.


 

In summary, underlay and backing materials are essential components in the embroidery process, providing support, stability, and structure to the fabric and stitches. By carefully selecting and applying the appropriate underlay and backing, you can enhance the quality, durability, and overall appearance of your embroidered designs.

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